Try to put your washing machine and dishwasher on a firm, level floor, close to an outside wall or internal soil stack. Both of these machines need a power supply as well as a water supply.
You normally connect a washing machine to the cold and hot water systems, but quite a few will work with just a cold supply. Dishwashers usually need only a cold supply. If your machine is supplied from the pipe that feeds your kitchen tap, the water will be at mains pressure. If it also needs a hot water supply, this will be at gravity pressure from the cylinder upstairs. Most machines have a flow restrictor in the cold water inlet to even out the pressure difference.
If you're fitting a washing machine in your bathroom, you won't be able to put a socket or switched fused connection unit in there. So it's best to mount the fused connection unit outside the bathroom, and connect your machine to a flex outlet plate in the bathroom.
Before moving your old washing machine or dishwasher, tie or tape any loose pipes or hoses to the top so any water that's left in them doesn't spill all over the floor.
If your machine's hoses won't reach the existing supply pipes, you'll have to drain and cut them, add T-fittings and run branch pipes to the machine. Washing machines and dishwashers need to be plugged into a standard socket, but a common problem in kitchens and utility rooms is that all the sockets are positioned above the work surfaces. A good solution is to run a spur from a socket to a switched fused connection unit above your work surface, and then a cable from this to an unswitched socket below the surface to serve the machine. The connection unit should have a neon to show when the machine is switched on.
If your machine's hoses won't reach your existing supply pipes, you'll need to drain and cut the pipes, add T-fittings and run branch pipes to the machine. These should terminate in mini stop valves to which your machine's hoses can be connected. If the supply pipes run close to your machine, you can fit T-piece stop valves and screw the hoses to them. Or you might be able to use self-cutting connectors containing isolating valves, which you can install without draining the pipes.
Your machine's flexible waste hose has to discharge into a waste pipe or trap above the level of the top of the drum. One option is to hook the hose into the top of an open standpipe with a P-trap at its base. From the trap, the waste pipe must run through your outside wall to a hopper head or gully, or directly into a soil stack. The air gap at the top of the standpipe will stop any dirty water siphoning back into the machine. Some manufacturers recommend a standpipe, and some water companies insist on it. The easiest solution though, is to put your machine next to a sink and change your sink trap to a washing machine trap - which has an inlet for the waste hose. Install a non-return valve to prevent the back-siphonage of waste water; or fix a hook to the underside of the work surface and tie the hose to it, so that it runs higher than the level of the sink overflow.
Before you start, check your washing machine or dishwasher is compatible with these fittings. Connect the machine's blue hose to the cold supply, and the red hose (if it has one) to the hot.
To make sure you get a good seal between the connector and pipe, clean the area of pipe with steel wool and remove any paint.
Before you fit the saddle assembly to your pipe, make sure the rubber seal is correctly positioned. Then place the backplate behind the pipe and fit the saddle over the top, aligning the screw holes. For added strength, you can screw the backplate to your wall.
Clamp the saddle assembly in place around the pipe with its two halves square to the pipe, inserting the screws and tightening them fully.
Make sure the valve is in the 'off' position, then screw it into the saddle by hand - you'll feel it cut into the pipe as you do so. Keep turning the valve until it's fully home and its body is at right-angles to the pipe - this will let you turn it on and off easily.
Secure the valve by tightening its retaining locknut with a spanner or wrench, so that the valve doesn't move.
Attach the supply hose to the valve by screwing its cap nut on to the threaded outlet. Try to make sure it's tight.
Usually, a washing machine has nearby hot and cold water pipes extended via T-fittings to reach its supply hoses. Mini stop valves allow you to isolate the machine without having to cut off the water supply. Hook the waste hose into a standpipe with a P-trap.
A dishwasher normally just has a cold water supply. The mini stop valve that connects the supply pipe to the machine's hose lets you isolate the machine without turning off your water. Connect the waste hose to a washing machine trap beneath the sink.
An adjustable spanner is a handy tool for gripping nuts of different sizes.
Steel wool cleans copper pipes without scratching for a good seal with a connector.
Mini stop valves for washing machines and dishwashers are available in right-angled, in-line and T-piece versions.